Site icon s/v Hazel James

Navigate and Orca-Strait

…of course I could have just as easily titled this post “Navigate the Orca-Strait” because we’re doing both at the moment. On one hand there’s the hour-to-hour, degree-to-degree and minute-to-minute navigation, but without high-level and mid-level sailing plans—the “orchestration” you might say—the navigation is pointless. As the Cat said, “If you don’t know where you want to go, then it doesn’t matter which path you take.”

Speaking of straights, I think it was our Greek friend Euclid who pointed out that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. However, Hazel and I are not in Greece anymore and it appears that that rule does not apply around the Strait of Gibraltar. Perhaps I would modify it to: “The shortest distance between two points, that also minimizes the risk of an orca encounter, is not necessarily a Strait line.” But alas, my amendment lacks Euclid’s laconic pith.

Looking at the overall chart and orchestrating our path to Madeira, it’s pretty obvious that once clear of the Strait of Gibraltar and its busy commercial shipping lanes, Hazel and I should immediately alter course to port (left) and head west-southwest (roughly midpoint between due west and southwest) towards Madeira.

Our current location is the red chevron. A bit confusing but the “Madeira Islands” consist of both the big Island of Madeira and Porto Santo which lies 30 miles northeast of the Island of Madeira (plus a smattering of islets). The Island of Madeira appears on the chart above but much smaller Porto Santo does not (zooming in would show it). Porto Santo is roughly where the purple pin is located.

The only issue with Euclid’s solution to the problem are those pesky pods of orcas and their tendency to gnaw on sailboat rudders. As a quick aside (and a Google search will tell you a lot more), the current leading theory on why orcas do this is that underwater, sailboat rudders resemble tunas (locally, the orcas primary food source) and the intelligent mammals are using the rudders as “target practice” to train their calves. A straight line from the Strait of Gibraltar toward the Madeira Islands would take me directly through the heat of the heat map.

Gibraltar, where Hazel and I are now is just to the right (just off this chart). Tarifa, a major landmark and rough midpoint of the Strait is to the left (west) of Gibraltar and circled. Barbate (pronounced bar-VHAT-tee) lies about 20 miles northwest of Tarifa, and Cadiz (CAD-ease) lies 30 miles north-northwest of Barbate (both circled).

Rhett and I have joined and been following the orcas.pt website. (In case you are wondering, we did “Buy Me a Beer” for Rui the webmaster.) Per the website, “Iberian orcas’ swim profile is (between) 20 and 350 meters of depth (60 to 1,100 feet).” Rui’s general guidance for my situation is near “the red zone” to only travel in daylight hours and travel along the 20 meter (60 foot) depth contour all the way to Cadiz, then turn due west for 20-30 miles before laying in a course to Madeira.

While I’m sure the advice is well-intentioned, my belief is that risk is an inherent part of life and following the guidance to the letter comes at a cost. It’s another 70 to 90 miles of “sailing” and also a couple extra days and nights since night-travel is not advised. (“Sailing” in quotes because following a countour like this likely requires all motoring.) Yes, in case you are wondering, when our friend Theo lost two-thirds of his rudder to the curious cetaceans it was at night. (See previous post for the remains of his rudder.)

With all this laid out, I had also been tracking recent orca encounters and had seen a clear trend northward in the Atlantic and away from the Strait (ostensibly the orcas following the tuna migration). Before Tuesday of this week (two days ago), the last encounter in the Strait of Gibraltar was back in mid-September. So, until the other day, I had in the back of my mind that I could cut some corners when it came to the orca avoidance protocol. (Mind you, that was in the back of my mind and not the collective Rhett’s and my mind…but keep that between you and me.) I figured, somewhat hazily, that once I made Tarifa if I was “feeling good” and we had plenty of daylight, I could “Damn the torpedos” and head right at Madeira. Heck, I’m the captain and by the time I’d be begging for forgiveness (because I certainly hadn’t asked for permission), Hazel and I would be well clear of the hotspot and all’s well that ends well.

However, and as I said in my last micro-post on our home page (titled “Ox to the Rescue”), there was a sighting of orcas in the Strait of Gibraltar just the other day. While I got the information on our VHF radio, Rhett received more detail through the orcas.pt site…

“15/10/2024 13:00 Sighting N 35° 55.027′ W 5° 38.662′ Sw Tarifa #orcas. For those near the straighta. We were just surrounded by a pod of Orcas who followed us for about a mile. Luckily we were able to pour on all speen under power and make 12 knots and they left us alone.

Personally, I think the typos are endearing. I can just imagine the sweaty, trembling fingers trying to get a cogent report on the wire. I don’t know what kind of “sailboat” these sailors were in, but I can waterski at 12 knots. That’s more than twice the absolute best speed that Hazel can achieve while motoring.

So, I’ve decided to throw my secret corner-cutting plan—which is of course now no longer a secret—out the window. I’m going to stand up straight (Strait?), be a good Boy Scout, salute the flag, and follow the recommendations. Frankly, if we were staying coastal and this were the last sail of the year, I might just keep my cavalier approach and damn those torpedoes—any teeth marks on the rudder could be buffed out by a boatyard during a winter haul out. However, with the upcoming Atlantic crossing in mind, if Hazel were to suffer an encounter anywhere near as severe as Theo’s, we’d have to postpone the crossing attempt by a year, which would cause a whole cascading series of events. Besides, I’m feeling really good about getting back into the Atlantic and about the transatlantic crossing with its solid tradewind sailing.

So, the plan you should expect to see from Hazel and me is:

I’ll be busy the next couple days since costal navigation takes a lot more navigational attention and energy than offshore sailing. I’ve got no sea room to play with. I will do my best to stay on daily micro-posts (on the chart on our home page) and keep you apprised of what we’re seeing. Or—hopefully—not seeing.


Who knows. I’m probably spending a lot more time “orca-straiting” this whole thing than I need to. If I step back and look at every possible risk that Hazel and I regularly encounter, I still don’t think I’d put orcas on the top-5. However, I’m the guy who also thinks that driving a car on South Florida’s I-95 is more dangerous than sailing an ocean solo in a small boat, and I stand by that assessment. Still, there’s something about the beast that stirs the primordial soup of our human nature. After all, without a beast, Jaws wouldn’t be the movie that it is. And of course, the name of Quint the fisherman’s boat? Orca.

Fair winds and following seas.


PS: Full credit to my great friend Kevin who came up with the “orca-strate” pun. I chewed on it for a while as I hunch there was more there, there. Then, serendipitously, I came up with the “orca-strait” enhancement. Go team!

From Tuesday this week (2 days ago), the unmistakable bulk of the Rock of Gibraltar looming in the mist.
Hazel safely moored later that night with the Rock of Gibraltar in the background. If you refer to the previous picture Hazel is now behind and to the right of the Rock (as seen from the previous picture).
Although our first day in Gibraltar/Alcadesia was blustery. We had a warm day today with beautiful sun to dry out Hazel after several wet days.
Moored in the marina here…. interesting decoration on this rather homely catamaran’s hull.
A close-up. I just love the countenance. It seems to be begging for forgiveness (perhaps for intruding on the real orcas’ domain?) Or, maybe like the cars with “Student Driver” placards, this logo identifies the boat to the orcas as a trainer for very young calves. Perhaps—so as to not damage their baby teeth—the boat has rubber rudders? I could go on and on with this one…
Bonus for anyone interested: This is the ebb and flow of the currents in the Strait of Gibraltar. It is keyed off of high water at Gibraltar (second row, rightmost panel, “HW”=high water). Gibraltar is that little peninsula to the right in every frame. On Friday morning, high water Gibraltar occurs at 0415 (4:15 a.m.) and our trusty pilot book recommends departing Gibraltar at 2 hours after high (third row middle panel) to catch the best tidal current. We’ll slip our moorings at 0515 to have an extra hour of cushion. At 6 hours after high water (lower right) the cycle repeats in the upper left (it then being 5 hours before the next high water).
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