Given I’ve got limited time but near unlimited bandwidth (a rarity lately), I’ll make this post text lite and photo heavy. It’s 1100 local time in Madeira and I’m waiting for the squally cold front from the remnants of subtropical storm Patty to pass so I can start sailing the 275 miles to the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Provided the weather breaks after the front and I can get out of here, should be a 2-4 day sail. Hopefully, I will beat Rhett there by a couple days but we’ll see what Poseidon and Aeolus have to say about that. I’ll keep micro posts going on our passage to Lanzarote so please tune in (on HJ’s. home page).
From Cadiz to Porto Santo
I was so impressed with Cadiz. Big enough and historical enough for sustained interest, but off the tourist trail. Especially in October. The 600 mile sail to Porto Santo was challenging but good. I felt great about my sailing and decision making.
Capo Trafalgar on my way to Cadiz.Roman ruins to the left, and to the right and deeper are older Phonecian ruins.Theater in Cadiz.Oysters in the market!Cadiz’s Cathedral of the Americas HJ in the industrial port of Cadiz (note container ship underway in background).Departing Cadiz at sunrise.If you want to know what modern-day pirates look like, this is it.Mountainous waves on our sail.Big seas in the background and me having Pulp Fiction fun with a tangerine in the foreground.
Porto Santo
There are two inhabited islands in the Madeira Archipelago: the smaller Porto Santo, and the much larger Madeira. Porto Santo is northeast of Madeira and therefore first on my route. It’s much lower than Madeira, more arid, and blessed with a “real” beach.
After my first night anchored off the beach in Porto Santo, I moved into the protected harbor. HJ is to the lower left. Note ferry from Madeira moored on the far wall of the harbor.Close up of HJ.Lil’ Dinghy at the dinghy dock (a thoroughbred amongst draft horses).Wall paintings similar to Horta in the Azores.Boarding my bus trip of the islands.Excellent views.Beautiful beaches.There’s a joke in the Mediterranean that any coast with stones that are golf ball sized or smaller is “a beach.” We’re talking real sand in Porto Santo!The north and windward coast of the Atlantic Islands are foreboding.Small unlit islet off the north coast.High vantage point looking down on the town of Vila Baleria.Endless beach on the south coast.Beach walk.Checking out the Norwegian ship Christian Radich from Lil’ Dinghy.I bet she’s seen some spray.
From Porto Santo to Madeira
Short 30 mile daysail from Porto Santo to Madeira. Given wind predictions, I elected to start sailing at 0100 and arrive at sunrise before the wind died.
About 20 minutes out from Porto Santo (and at 0200), this bird hit me in the face. We were both a bit stunned. I’ll write more about it someday.Approaching Madeira.Cool natural arch on the approach.The Madeira airport having into view. It’s built out over the water.A picture taken later of the Quinta do Lorde Marina where HJ was nestled in for several nights.
Tour of Madeira Island
I took a great group jeep tour of the island with guide and driver Pedro.
Tour started at a small fishing village. Note the terraced used of every space for agriculture.Chapel in the fishing town.Beautiful scenery.Stopping for a break and our guide Pedro stepped behind the bar to help.Everybody loves Elvis!Some off-roading on the tour.Pedro had to hop out and move a boulder or two.The last bit of off-roading. Note in the background on the horizon is Porto Santo.Beautiful coastal town under a rainbow.Another of the town.Black scabbard fish lunch with banana.Stunning coast.Lots of waterfalls.If you look closely you’ll see climbers rappelling down this waterfall.Driving under the airport runway.The tuna can rainbow (not very talk but wide around)Looking toward Funchal (capital of the Madeira Archipelago).Banana plants tucked into a road curve.
Funchal
Pronounced FOON-shall. The capital city of Madeira Island and the Archipelago.
The famous painted doorways in Funchal.Good painting for a dentist office!
Ponta de São Lourenço Hike
Our marina is on the eastern end of the island and just east of us was an excellent hike. Sunrise was at 0730 and I left HJ at 0600 to be on the trail for sunrise.
Making great vantage point just in time for sunrise.Magnificent.A grotto icon on the hike. Very Greek (to me).Looking back to the “mainland” of the island. Not the “small” round fish farms in the bay.Another view looking west.I liked the signage, “What do you seek?” I’ve been thinking about that question a lot ever since.Rock formations.There’s the weather adage, “Mackerel sky, mackerel sky, not long wet and not long dry.” Close up of the fish farm with a 20-30 foot boat tending them. Note how small the boat is compared to the pens.The Portuguese take their wayfinding cairns seriously!Looking to the Ilas Desertas to the southeast, where we hope to be sailing today.
