Caio! (and announcing the return of daily micro-posts)

Greetings from Pylos, Greece. As Homer called it “Sandy Pylos.” (As I write this, I’m enjoying a morning coffee from my Bialetti. While it percolated on the stove, it told me how much it was looking forward to getting back to its Italian homeland.)

The island of Ithaca (and generally thought to be the seat of Odysseus’ kingdom) lies about 100 miles to the north-northwest. I visited there last year (if you missed it, see this post, section: The Odyssey to Odysseus’ Home). King Nestor of Pylos plays important roles in both Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. Nestor is the embodiment of the elder statesman. Always giving sound and reasoned advice based on his years of experience. The other day I rented a car, and toured what is thought to be the remains of Nestor’s Palace, and also hiked to Nestor’s Cave. Thrilling.

What is thought to have been Nestor’s Palace and the best preserved Mycenaean-era castle in existence. The arched roof protects the ruins and the elevated walkway allows one to get a bird’s eye view of the structure.
The courtyard leading to the throne room.
A pantry off the throne room. If you look carefully at the “rubble” at the bottom of the picture, you’ll see that it is all shards of drinking goblets that were broken during a fire about 1200 BC. For reference the events chronicled in the Iliad and Odyssey were supposed to have happened about 1300 BC, Homer lived around 700 BC, and the Iliad and Odyssey were captured in writing about 600 BC (Homer was of the oral tradition).
Nestor’s Cave. It’s remote and good hike to get there. The entrance I used is on the right. The light shining down from above is another entrance. I wonder if that hole in the earth is marked—I hope so!
Hiking to Nestor’s Cave with the Paliokastro (old castle) in the foreground, Navarino Bay in the middle background, and the town of Pylos in the distance (immediately above the castle’s crenellations).

I am at-once scurrying about and a little sad. Scurrying about because I’m preparing to sail about 300 miles or so to Italy. I’m a little sad because I’m seeing the last of Greece.

Reggio Calabria on the toe of the boot of Italy is my intended port-of-call but we’ll see how that goes. From there, north through the Strait of Messina and west along the northern coast of Sicily. I’m a little worried about this upcoming sail to Reggio Calabria. The winds appear to be light and fickle and generally from the north and west (the direction I want to go). It’s also 300 miles “as the dolphin swims” which could mean a lot more miles from me if I need to tack upwind.

Pylos is blue dot and Reggio Calabria, Italy yellow star.

I’ve reactivated my satellite connectivity so you should be able to track my daily progress on the HJ Sailing home page when I depart later today. As with my Atlantic crossing a couple years ago, I’ll try to make daily posts of what’s happening aboard. On the HJ Sailing home page tracker, my current location is a red dot and where I’ve made posts will be a green dots. My latest post will be at the bottom of the map and scrolling to the right you’ll see older posts.

Example of tracker from HJ Sailing home page. I’m not sure why it says we’re doing 2.8 knots when we’re tied to a pier (maybe that was my last update with any speed whatsoever). If you click on the slices of Velveeta in the upper right and switch from “Satellite” to “Map” mode you can also get a sense of what wind I am experiencing.

Fair winds and following seas!

PS: Thank you for comments to yesterday’s Jumping Ship post. I appreciate them so much. In thinking about the deeper context of the intertwined stories of the post, it occurred to me just how much of the enormity of life turns on little things. Some might call it luck, or fate, or God, or the gods. Perhaps it’s a good reminder to—on one hand—not get wrapped up in the minutiae of life; but—at the same time—know that those little things, regardless of if they are in your control or not, can determine the course of the stream of your life.

To that end, yesterday would also have been Colleen’s and my 34th wedding anniversary. I spent a lot of time yesterday and the day before rewinding fondly 34 years to what was happening on those beautiful days.

Also to that end, I am thrilled to announce that our son Jack and his most-awesome wife Jessie are pregnant! They are due mid-February 2025 and, although I couldn’t talk about it publicly until now, it’s another factor that Rhett and I considered when we set our goal to sail HJ to the Caribbean. Having Hazel a couple hour flight away is such a different prospect than having her halfway around the world. It will help us balance the sailing we want to do with all that we want to be as hopeful grandparents.

Gotta love Jess’s avatar. For me, it’s also nice to see that the stork has sobered up since I last saw him in the Saturday-morning cartoons of my youth.

2 thoughts on “Caio! (and announcing the return of daily micro-posts)

  1. Wow, what an eventful week. So glad that Sunny turned up safe. That must have been a gut-wrenching experience. Congratulations to Jack and Jessie! What great news. And best wishes for your voyage back to Italy. We’ll be watching…

  2. Good luck with your journey. We are in Effimia, Kefalonia where we first saw your boat and planning a trip to Messoulonghi

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